Range Guide - Start Here!
Regiments is a huge range of 28mm heroic scale infantry components and kits from Anvil Industry.
- Extensive Range - Over 200 different conversion bits and kits available now, with plans to continue adding new options!
- Heroic Scale - Compatible with the widest range of existing products and popular plastic infantry kits.
- User Friendly - Where possible components feature a peg assembly system for precise and easy dry fitting and assembly.
- High Quality - We've used the latest digital design methods and highest quality resin casting to achieve incredible levels of detail and quality.
- Maximum Variety - Leg and Arm sets offer 10 poses for each style, and head sprues include many unique variants, so no two figures in your army need look the same!
An Assembly Guide is available further down the page, which we strongly recommend you read to help you get the best out of your Regiments products.
Planned Future Releases for the next few months are listed at the bottom of this page, and we welcome suggestions!
Purchasing Regiments Products:
Regiments products are designed to offer the best possible mix of flexibility and value:
Individual Sprues are available, organised in categories by product type.
Conversion Packs allow you to purchase combinations of parts for converting popular plastic miniatures, saving money compared to purchasing separate sprues.
Regiments Full Squads are squads of figures we've designed with parts which we think work well together, and provide a "one-click" way to buy Regiments units, with a significant saving over the cost of the separate parts.
Regiments Custom Squad Builder allows you total freedom to design your own original Regiment, picking from any available parts in the range, and adding optional extras to build your ideal combat force! There are currently 750,000+ unique combinations of parts available.
Differences among manufacturers and descriptions can cause a lot of confusion about scale. Regiments miniatures are designed in what is commonly called "28mm heroic". They are approx 30.5mm tall, and have larger heads, guns, and limbs than more "realistic" miniatures, which makes them sturdier, easier to build and paint, and look more eye catching from a distance.
Here is a scale comparison photo comparing some Regiments figures to our Afterlife and Exo-Lords ranges, as well as some popular plastic figures (Cadian Imperial Guard and Space Marine) from Games Workshop which many gamers will be familiar with.
Regiments Miniatures compared to Afterlife Commando (Top row, second from left), Exo-Lord (Top row, far right), Cadian Imperial Guard (bottom row, second from left) and Space Marine (bottom row, far right).
Cadian Imperial Guard and Space Marine miniatures are Copyright Games Workshop PLC. Images are used here for the purpose of scale comparison, which we believe constitutes fair use.
Assembly Guide - We STRONGLY recommend reading this entire guide before building Regiments miniatures.
Your parts should be virtually 100% free of defects and bubbles, and have only minimal mould lines, so clean up is usually straightforward. It's easiest to remove the parts from the sprues carefully with clippers. Arms are supplied as pairs, and should be kept on their "letter" tab until they are about to be glued on a model!
Resin is reasonably easy to work with, but if you choose to use sandpaper or a file this can create hazardous dust. Work in a well ventilated area and use water on your tools to minimise dust in the air.
Resin parts can occasionally have a shiny surface from the casting process which can interfere with paint sticking, so it's best to give the parts a gentle scrub with warm water, detergent and a toothbrush, take extra care with thin or smaller parts.
2. Assembly Notes
DRY FITTING - We strongly recommend that at ALL stages of assembly, you test fit the parts without glue first before adding glue and making the connection permanent.
Resin parts need to be glued to other resin parts with Super Glue, please take care to avoid glueing the resin parts to your fingers, tools, desk etc.
Legs are supplied with textured tabs which fit exactly into the supplied slotta bases, and should sit flush and almost disappear when painted, but you may wish to add sand, filler or use alternative bases. The Peg on the waist joint fits Regiments torsos, but can be clipped off and smoothed if you want to use the legs with other torsos.
Torsos fit on the waist peg and can be freely rotated to various angles.
Arms are the most difficult part of the assembly process. After deciding which arms to use with a particular torso, follow these steps to ensure the best result -
- Check the back of the weapon is smooth where it joins the stock, and fits cleanly into the slot in the pistol grip hand. If it doesn't fit easily, you may need to remove some material from the peg.
- After checking the fit, glue the weapon into the pistol grip hand (usually the right arm), ensuring it is correctly lined up with the stock (look from the front and from the top.
- IMPORTANT - Check the fit of the arm and weapon against the torso - Certain combinations of arm and torso result in a not quite perfect fit - in these cases you will need to remove material from the torso (where it is covered by the arm/stock/weapon) until the arm fits flush with the side of the torso.
- Before further glueing, "dry fit" the right and left arms in place on the torso, ensuring that the gun fits in the open hand (where applicable) and the open hand arm is also flush with the torso.
- After making any further adjustments to the torso/arms, glue first the pistol grip arm and then the open hand arm to the torso.
Shoulder pads are supplied on a sprue which uses one piece casting - this means there are guaranteed to be no mould line at all on the pad itself. They are attached to their "tree" with a wide but very thin section of resin. It's best to clip the tree into pairs, then when you are ready to attach a pair of pads, carefully clip the thin resin gate away from both ends and then file or sand the inner surface of the pad flat, leaving a flawless part
Depending on the arm and pose, you may find the pads do not sit quite right, and you need to remove some material from the top of the arm (where it will be hidden under the pad) before glueing it on. The best way to connect a shoulder pad is with a small blob of milliput, which acts as both gap filler and glue in one.
Heads should fit nicely into the torso ball joint, if you ensure the bottom of the neck has had the resin 'gate' removed fully. A range of head poses are possible as standard, but you can shave small amounts of resin from the neck area or side of the chin to allow some more angled poses.
Equipment, such as mags, pouches and weapon accessories can be attached.
Gap Filling - Modular Kits, even with the most careful assembly, will occasionally have small gaps where parts are joined together. They will often disappear on painting, but if you have the time and want the best results, you can use green stuff, milliput or a similar filler to fill small gaps.
Once your miniatures are ready for painting, we recommend either undercoating with a quality undercoat spray, you can also undercoat using an airbrush, if you have made sure the resin is clean. we recommend you don't undercoat resin miniatures by hand, though it is possible.
4. Paint your miniatures, and send us some photos so we can admire your work!
Planned Future Releases
We hope to expand the Regiments range in the future to maximise your design choices and options. Here are our current plans for releases in the next few months.
- Traitors and Renegades - The corrupt, the twisted, and the fallen...
- Desert Raiders, including new medieval style arms
- New Sci-Fi parts, including rail rifles and Jet packs
Cloaked light infantry
- Bionic Infantry, including bionic conversion parts for injured veterans
- Vehicles of various kinds
We would love your feedback!
Have questions or comments about the range, or suggestions for future product types/styles you'd like to see added? Get in touch on Facebook, our discussion thread in News/Rumours on DakkaDakka, or send us an email - email@example.com
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